In Tasmania’s cool deep south, Jonny and Matthew Hughes’ Mewstone is just a decade old, but it’s made quite the impression in its short life, with the wines receiving plaudits from all corners. The core of the Mewstone operation is a vineyard-first philosophy, with the site part way through its organic conversion. That transition is important, but the vineyard has always been farmed with a deep focus on soil health and microbial life, while non-vineyard land has been progressively regenerated, with the biodiversity significantly enhanced since the brothers took over the old cherry orchard. Managed by Luke Andree, the site is well on the way to being a closed-loop operation, and the pursuit of wine quality and terroir reflection is an ongoing project. Plantings of different varieties and clones are arrayed across a range of aspects, orientations and soil variations to uncover the most compelling expressions. It’s a unique, isolated site with a team that has vision and determination in equal measure.